Have a question about your sailboat or powerboat? Looking for information about maintenance on a used sailboat or brand new luxury yacht? You've found the right place to get an answer. Our experts are happy to share their expertise. We regularly post questions from our visitors with an answer from one of our seasoned experts. So, whether you have a question about how to buy a yacht, or perhaps how to get more speed from your sailboat, when to winterize your motor yacht, or even how to find that hard-to-find-part, this is the venue for you.

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Q: My stainless steel is rusting! Why? What can I do to fix it?" - Tom from Newport

A: Stainless steel is stainless because of the protective chromium oxides on the surface. If those oxides are removed by scouring, or by reaction with bleach, then the iron in the steel is exposed and can be rusted. Stainless steel is also vulnerable to contamination by plain carbon steel, the kind found in tools, food cans, and steel wool. This non-stainless steel tends to rub off on the surface (due to iron-to-iron affinity), and readily rusts. Once rust has breached the chromium oxides, the iron in the stainless steel can also rust. Fixing this condition calls for re-passivation.

Passivating stainless steel is normally accomplished in industry by dipping the part in a bath of nitric acid. Nitric acid dissolves any free iron or other contaminants from the surface, which cleans the metal, and it re-oxidizes the chromium; all in about 20 minutes. But you don't need a nitric acid bath to passivate. The key is to clean the stainless steel to bare metal. Once the metal is clean (and dry), the oxygen in the atmosphere will form the protective chromium oxides. The steel will be every bit as passivated as that which was dipped in acid. The only catch is that it takes longer-- about a week or two.

To passivate stainless steel at home without using a nitric acid bath, you need to clean the surface of all dirt, oils and oxides. The best way to do this is to use an oxalic acid based cleanser like those mentioned above, and a non-metallic green scrubby pad. Don't use steel wool, or any metal pad, even stainless steel, because this will actually promote rust. Scour the surface thoroughly and then rinse and dry it with a towel. Leave it alone for a week or two and it will re-passivate itself. You should not have to do this procedure more than once, but it can be repeated as often as necessary.

Q: I've been reading a lot about new sailboats that are deck salon style, what's the difference? -Nancy from Los Angeles

A: The deck salon style of sailboat has become quite popular, especially among those who wish to live aboard or just to have more space in general. This type of configuration offers space and accommodations usually found only in larger sailboats.

Q: We're moving to the Oxnard area this summer and we're wondering what kind of sailing destinations are in the area? -John and Alice from Las Vegas

A: Oxnard is a wonderful area just North of Los Angeles and has some of the best sailing conditions on the west coast. Not only is the wind always blowing, but the Channel Islands are just 17 miles away and provide some excellent fishing, snorkeling, hiking, exploration and much more. To learn more click on the following links http://www.nps.gov/chis/homepage.htm or http://www.cinms.nos.noaa.gov http://www.channel.islands.national-park.com

Q: I'd like to spend the summer in San Diego. Will it be difficult to find a slip in the area? -Sean from Phoenix

A: It can be, depending on the marina and the relationships your dealer and/or broker may have. Planning is important of course. If you purchased your boat from a dealer in San Diego they should be able to help you - I know we do at H&S.