Our expert team of sailboat and power boat specialists share maintenance tips to assist novice and veteran owners in managing their investment and maintaining their safety. Our email newsletter features updates as well.

For assistance in servicing or maintaining your sail or motor yacht, please visit our Service Center or use the service request form.

Quick links to our current maintenance tips

Winter is coming. Are you prepared?

Winter is upon us. During these holiday months we often don't get to spend as much time as we would like on the water. This leaves our vessel idle at the slip. While it is not unusual to assume that something will last longer if it is not used as much, this is not true with regards to your vessels' systems. It is a very good idea to get down to your vessel at least twice a month and give her some TLC. The best way to do this is to go through a systems checklist (if you don't have one, contact your service representative today). This includes things like starting the engines, putting them in and out of gear, idling them up, and checking the fluid levels. Another good suggestion is to "cycle" your valves (open and close them). This visit will also give you the opportunity to make sure that your batteries are charging properly, that your 110 shore power is working, and that your bilge pumps are functional. Who knows, by making the time to go to your vessel, you might even enjoy a boat ride!

Dock Lines and Bilge Pumps

Dock Lines and Bilge Pumps. Now is a good time to inspect your safety and mooring equipment on the boat. As winter approaches, you want to make sure that your vessel will be secured in a midnight storm, and that your bilge pump are operational during a heavy rain. Take some time on your next visit and move your dock lines around a little so that they don't always wear in the same areas. While they are off, look for flat, shiny, or frayed areas. If your lines are exhibiting these signs, it would be a good idea to replace them. Also, inspect your bilge pumps. make sure that they work on manual by activating the manual switch. Also, check your float valves by manually lifting the float, or turning the small pencil eraser sized knob on the side of the float. You should hear your bilge pumps come on. Make sure that the screens are clear of any debris, and that your bilges don't have any trash, rags, plastic, or fishing line in them. It is always better to be safe than sorry, and you will sure sleep better on that night of the first big storm!

Keep parts moving
As a rule, all the parts of a vessel will last longer if they are used on a regular basis. Whether or not you are able to use your vessel frequently, it is a good idea to go through a start up procedure at least once a month. This includes exercising all of your thru-hulls, checking your battery fluid levels, manually starting your bilge pumps, running your main(s) and generator (if equipped), putting your vessel in and out of gear, rotating your steering from side to side, running your A/C and refrigeration units, using your fresh water pumps and cycling all of the faucets, checking all of your emergency systems, alarms, and fire extinguishers, and doing a good all around visual inspection. This will ensure that all of the moving parts in your vessel get lubricated, and that if there is a problem, it occurs in a controlled environment.Call your service department for more help on this.

MainSail Halyard Clutch
A tip for our sail customers: It would be wise to zip tie, or otherwise secure, the MainSail Halyard Clutch, to prevent accidental release while the Mainsail is hauled out or furled in, so as to prevent the sail being stuck in the mast, or unable to furl in. This would also prevent rookie crew from making this costly mistake. To accomplish, simply secure the halyard on the winch, take up tension, release the clutch, insert zip tie through the clutch along the top side of the halyard, close the clutch, and secure the zip tie over the top of the clutch handle. In an emergency, the zip tie can be easily broken.
The only reason to ever release the halyard clutch, is to adjust the luff tension, or remove the mainsail for maintenance or replacement, which should be accomplished by a qualified technician, or skilled sailor.

Engine Zincs

Most diesel engines have pencil zincs in them that need to be replaced on a regular basis. Most engine manuals suggest checking these zincs monthly, but replacement periods can vary from anywhere between 1 month to six months or more depending on many factors like engine use, location of the zinc etc.
A pencil zinc is a sacrificial zinc anode that screws into the engine in places where the salt water flows through the engine to protect it's various metal parts from galvanic corrosion. They are anywhere from and inch to three inches long and about the thickness of you little finger.There are usually between one and three zincs on each engine and they are typically located on the heat exchangers and oil coolers. They have a hex-head nut on them and are easily replaced by unscrewing the nut in which the zinc is threaded. One can buy just the zinc itself and unthread the old zinc from the back of the bronze hex- head, or the simpler but more expensive option is to buy new zincs with new heads.
Zincs are a vital part of your engines maintenance and failure to check and replace these can cause serious corrosion to the interior metal parts of you engine.

Electric Powered Winches
A tip for our sail customers: Concerning the use of Electric Powered Winches. Use of electric powered winches should be religated to know/existing loads on sheets and halyards, such as trimming sails while underway, or hauling boatswains chairs to inspect/repair mast issue's. If you cannot haul by hand or winch handle, there is an issue that needs to be addressed, and putting the line on a powered winch can only be damaging to equipment. You should never use the powered winch to haul out or furl sails, unless you know for a fact that all equipment and lines are operational, and the task has your full attention while operating the powered winch. Try it by hand first!

Seacocks
A tip for our sail & power customers: Don't forget to exercise your seacocks & ball valves. When is the last time you opened/closed the valve for your galley or head sink drain valves? The raw water pick up valve for the engine cooling system, AC Units, raw water head supply? Also, it would be wise to inspect the Y-Valve for the holding tank/head discharge before you go to Catalina this season, we would not want you turned away because of a leaky Y-Valve. Inspection of these valves also gives you a chance to see whats happening under the sole of your vessel, prevent a major issue, and give you peace of mind that your vessel is in great shape for the season.

Seasonal Leaks
When heavy rains occur many boaters experience leaks from some of the opening ports and deck hatches on their boats. In most cases this can be easily remedied by cleaning the rubber gasket used to seal the hatch. Simply take a small damp cloth and wipe any debris from the rubber gasket preventing it from sealing.

Battery Maintenance
Disconnect your battery when storing your boat for long periods of time. If there is any draw on the battery while it’s sitting, it can be drained too low to recover when you resume use. If the starting-battery voltage is low, then cranking may be slow, preventing a clean start. A shortfall of as little as one volt can make a big difference. If your boat remains idle for weeks on end, you should have your marina periodically trickle-charge the battery. If the battery is more than 3 or 4 years old, and has suffered neglect over that time period, you should consider replacing it. It's also important to maintain the battery by keeping the terminal posts clean of corrosion that can bleed voltage. A simple coat of grease holds the green stuff at bay. Periodically wash the battery top, because dirt can also rob voltage.

Basic Checklist
At H&S Yachts we think it's always good to have a set routine to follow or a check list to review before we leave the dock. Here is a checklist that should be followed before you leave the dock:
(For all boats)

Engine Room
Visually look for,
            Loose bolts
            Oil leaks
            Excessive water in bilge
            Oil or colored fluids in bilge
            Condition of hoses and clamps
            Reservoir levels (trim tabs)
Engine checks
            Coolant level
            Oil level
            Transmission level
            Belt tension
            Shaft coupling bolts
            Shaft logs for dripping
            Engine strainers and thru hulls
Generator checks
            Coolant level
            Oil level
            Belt tension
            Engine strainer and thru hull
Batteries check
            Check levels of water (wet cell only)
            Check for tightness on terminals
            Check and clean corrosion if any
(Sailboats only)
         Visual check all running and standing rigging, for wear and chafing.

If you wish, we can provide a very comprehensive 6 page list to you, just call us at our service office and we'll get it out to you. 

Q: My engine is not charging my battery. What’s the problem?
A: A fully charged battery with no load applied will read 12.5 volts. If the panel voltmeter reads 12.5 volts or less before the engine is started, and more than 12.5 volts once the engine is running, your batteries are being charged. If this is not the case contact the service department.
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Q: What is the normal service interval for my engine(s)?
A: The engine manufacturer’s warranty requires the initial service at 50 hours, and every 100 hours or each season after that. Please contact us for the specific schedule for maintenance for your engine type.
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Q: How often does the bottom of the hull need to be cleaned and repainted?
A: Yacht growth differs depending on water temperature. Southern California temperatures require a once a month cleaning for most of the year, where Cabo San Lucas and parts South require bi-monthly cleanings. Also, bottom painting should be done every 18-24 months, depending on the paint type and maintenance schedule.
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Q: My furling main sail is very difficult to unfurl. What is the problem?
A: Furling mains should be easy to furl in and out however, they require that the vang line, outhaul, and main sheet be completely slack in order to ease operation. If the furling main does not furl without the use of the winch, double-check your running rigging and mast shives. If no issues are found contact the service department.
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Q: How often should I replace my dripless packing glands?
A: PYI the manufacturer of the seals recommends replacement every 7-10 years unless other damage occurs. Dripless seals should be inspected for tightness and integrity monthly. Safety tip: These seals can be damaged by barnacle growth if not properly cleaned ormaintained.
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Q: Should I be concerned about gelcoat cracks?
A: Gelcoat cracking occurs in the surface of the deck area and in the curved areas of the deck. These are a cosmetic tendency of gelcoats makeup. These cracks occur due to normal flexing of the hull on both sail and power vessels. No manufacturer covers gel coat repair after the original purchase date.
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Q: If I have a 50 amp 125/250 volt plug and an isolation transformer on my Silverton yacht, can I use an adapter to plug into 30 amp 115 volt?
A: No. A 30 amp 115 volt will not pass through the isolation transformer and power the AC panel. These yachts require a 50 amp 125/250 source at your dock.
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Q: Why do my doors stop closing shortly after delivery, is this covered under warranty?
A: Power and sailing yachts use wood interiors that swell under different climate conditions, normal flexing of the boat hull can exacerbate this issue but is not covered by the manufacturers warranty.
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